Damn Those Italians

Damn those Italians. When I eat a dish like Fettucine Alfredo I curse those damned Italians, not because anything is wrong but because everything is right. Just about everything that comes out of Italy is right, the food, the wine, the cars, the women. I curse those damned Italians because they got it good. The only thing I can think of that the Italians don't do well is politics. But in a way, that isn't a bad thing.

Politics thrives on disatisfaction and anger. Italians have great food, great wine, gorgeous cars and beautiful women. Why would an Italian be disatisfied? They're not. They're among the happiest people on the planet because they know what they have and they know they are the envy of the world.

Take Italian food for example. Italian food is about flavor. It's not beautifully presented like nouveau cuisine nor insanely complex like traditional French dishes. Cooking traditional French cuisine is like being a virtuoso classical piano player who has mastered everything from Bach to Handel to Copeland. French chefs must know how to sautée, braise, poach, stew, fry, sear and simmer. Not only do they must know how to chop, mince or julienne a carrot, but they also need to know how to carve carrots and potatoes into perfectly uniform fingerlings so that they all cook evenly. They must know how to make mousses, soufflés and meringues. French chefs must know the differences between pâte à choux, pâte brisée, pâte sucrée and pâte sablée, and how to make them and how to use them. They must know 400 different cheeses and about 200 different wine appellations. Cooking for French eaters is a high pressure job. Michelin, the French tire company, publishes a restaurant guide in France. French chefs bask in praise, glory and lots of money when their restaurants earn the coveted 1, 2 and 3 stars but they are also known to consider suicide when they lose a Michelin star. On the other hand, Pirelli, the Italian tire company, publishes a calendar of beautiful women.

Unlike French cuisine, Italian food is simple. It's peasant food: Pasta, meat, sauce, cheese, bread, all served family style in large bowls and serving plates with a bottle of chianti or sangiovese. No beautiful arrangements and no flaming desserts. It doesn't have to be complex, it just has to taste good, like pasta alfredo. The sauce is easy: Just cream, butter and cheese. But man, what a potent combination!

Last night I made Sautéed Chicken in Pasta Alfredo and I cursed the damned Italians as I savored every bite of this simple dish because it was so easy. Too easy to make. So much flavor, so little effort. Damn those Italians! It's not fair!

Sautéed Chicken with Pasta Alfredo
Serves 4

1/2 lb pasta (a large pasta like fettucine or farfalle)
1 cup heavy cream
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 chicken breasts, cut into 1/4" wide strips
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp oil
1/2 cup grated parmigiana cheese
pinch nutmeg
salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add salt and cook the pasta just short of al dente. It will cook a little longer in the alfredo cream sauce.

While the pasta is cooking, combine the 4 tbsp butter and heavy cream in a small sauce pan over medium-low heat. Whisk until the butter is melted and incorporated into the cream. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a heavy sautée pan, heat the 2 tbsp butter and 2 tbsp oil over medium-high heat. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and sautee until browned. Add the sauce, cheese and nutmeg and reduce to medium. Drain and add the pasta and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 3 more minutes until the sauce thickens. Deglaze the pan while simmering. Add salt & fresh pepper to taste.

Serve with bread and a bottle of pinot grigio. Feel free to curse the Italians as you enjoy your meal.